vallelunga is up

Wow, that's pretty neat. Thanks for pointing out.

Are you guy using telemetry at all?

It's indeed hard to actually warm the tyres, but you at least prevent them from cooling down. Plus, it's the core temp that doesn't go higher, but the surface temp of the tyres will be significantly higher.

General question in light of cold temps at road america: Is there any technique to swerving on the pace lap? A bit of imposter syndrome to be honest, I just do it to look cool and because other people do it lol. It doesn't seem to warm the tires at all. Am I doing it wrong?

Road America Discussion is up

Afaik, the differential is not to send power to the non spinning wheel. The differential is supposed to make sure both wheels are spinning equaly, allthough not actively. The amount of diff lock is litteraly the amount of diff lock. 100% means that the wheels cannot spin differently from eachother, which is bad for the tyres. 0% means that the tyres are completely independant from eachother, letting them spin at their own rate if needed, e.g. corners. TC takes the rear axle as one. When one wheel spins, engine is revving mad, it cuts the power of to both wheels until the tyres have traction again.

So to answer your question, differential is always working, whether you're on a straight or in a corner, TC kicks in when you lose too much traction and start spinning the tyres.

Here's a question about differential and TC. I have looked around but couldn't find an answer. My understanding is that when one of the two driven wheels are spinning, the differential will sense that a wheel is going faster (the spinning wheel) and will thus redirect the power to the slower wheel (non-spinning wheel). What TC does is that when it senses a wheel spinning, it just stops sending power to that wheel. So does the TC intervene after the differential does its job or before? I assume it's after but I just wanted to check with people in the know. 8^)

If my energy and university time table allow me to check out some replays between studying, sleeping and actually practising myself, I'll be on it. Aka have patience pls. My first weeks uni in a nutshell: ♪ We go 0 - 100, buddy, real quick. They be on that push-the-students-hard ♥♥♥♥. ♪

But all jokes aside, if I have the energy, I will check.

For question see the Misano Thread. Also I won't be home un til friday so please adress all your questions to Rens. And if he doesn't reply quickly enough send me a message on reddit and I'll make sure he gets back to you!

For replay + setups check the google drive:

Google drive : https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxNyJM0w_2HWeEVlVGxiTDhjQjA&usp=sharing

@TRB if you really want to practice trailbraking pick a heavy race car that is front engined. Like the Nissan GT-R, or even better, the Maserati GT4. These cars benefit from trailbraking because the better you are at trailbraking, the better you can make the nose 'dive' into the corner. If you want a track to practice this at, the RBR is a good example where you can win a lot of time with trailbraking (T3, T7 and T8), or the Nurburgring GP track.

But the key thing is just practice. A lot of it. It's not something you learn overnight. It's something that becomes part of your driving style.

Hi guys, hope you had a good race! Sadly couldn't join due to work, maybe next time...

While practicing earlier I was thinking whether there are cars that can help you learn or even master one particular 'skill':
Car control - Road cars with their bad tires and exaggerated characteristics (eg. weight transfer) would probably fall in this category.
Throttle control - Something with a lot of power, but not enough grip.
Trail braking - Cars that simply won't turn unless you trail brake hard at every corner.

Ideally we'd also want a car that teaches eg. trail braking to emphasize that attribute more than the others, so that we could mostly concentrate on one thing at a time.

My question is specifically related to learning trail braking. Is there such a car?

I also use it to check if my steering wheel is aligned properly. Had it misaligned for half a season before I noticed it, so now I always use Mini Info to show pedals + wheel :p

I use it to see if your pedals are working correctly. If you use pedals with potentionmeters, after a while they will start to clip, which means they will register input although you don't press the pedal, or register less than 100% when flooring it.

For me, it's more for the recording. I never actually use it while driving.

Hi guys. I have one of many questions to come. :^)
I've seen that almost all drivers are using the AC Pedals app or something equivalent to see live their input (direction, brake, throttle). How is this useful in your driving?

Commentating how to drive on a lap in which everything goes wrong.

Kek

As promised, a video on how to drive Paul Ricard https://youtu.be/35KgR076PF4

Thanks. Just thinking about the physics makes it easier to see how it works, I just realized that this would only apply when accelerating such that there's some slip happening, and the opposite would happen when coasting (or not driving at the limit)... which made me realize why there are two diff settings, and the preload.

@vandidant the differential settings are one of the last things I change on a setup. Finding balance with it is the primary use. It's really track and setup dependand as well. So I can't tell u what I use to find traction or something. I adjust my right foot to the available traction.

Little diff lock usualy gives more traction when accelerating in a straight line, but will understeer when trying to accelerate mid corner. Higher diff lock is often better in corners as it will push the car through, BUT it is more prone to suddenly lose grip and spin you around.

Without TC on, what differential setting do you use? What I understand in theory is that a tight differential would prevent power being wasted burning out the inside wheel, but would also require more throttle discipline which is where TC becomes really handy. I haven't tested that theory, so I don't know if a loose differential would actually lose a substantial amount of time.

For questions see the Paul Ricard Discussion Thread.

Google drive : https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxNyJM0w_2HWeEVlVGxiTDhjQjA&usp=sharing

If you have any more questions about what I just said, or have questions at all on any topic, don't be shy and ask Rune or me ;)

Happy racing and keep practising!

Why I use factory ABS: I don't have a clue tbh... I never really bothered trying out other settings. Maybe it helps that I also try to modulate the brake, as in I slowly release it when I enter a corner to allow the car to turn in and not understeer or snap oversteer on me. Unlike TC, I don't notice a difference in pace whether I'm using 1/8, 4/8, 8/8 or no ABS at all. I personally like the default setting because for me it is the smoothest setting, as in I can't feel it intervene.

Why I don't use TC: simply said, it f♥cks me up. Whenever I get oversteer or wheelspin, I instantly react to that, but for some reason if TC is enabled, I either overcorrect or the TC kicks in on the worst moment. It just doesn't work for me. It makes me slower as well. Driving the GTR may make you think I'm a daredevil, but there is more traction in the GTR than you think. Besides, out of all cars, I think the GTR it the easiest to deal with when it comes to oversteer and wheelspin. It's a matter of learning to recognize that you are losing control (rev spikes or sudden oversteer) and learning how to modulate the throttle to that point that you are getting maximum acceleration out of the maximum grip of the tyres. Most of the time preventing TC to intervene is faster as well.

@TRB Kind of late reaction, srry for that (I had intro week at my university so I was partying 24/7), but I don't use TC and I use factory ABS. Now let me explain some things from my experience.

Will be checking the first batch of replays tomorrow - so if you want some advice before the start of the season upload your replay tonight :)

Google drive : https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxNyJM0w_2HWeEVlVGxiTDhjQjA&usp=sharing

I use ABS and TC, but play around with the settings in game to suit each track. For example, at Monza I run 11/12 TC (almost none) and 6/8 ABS, but for Doni I ran 6/12 TC and 5/8 ABS.

Kind of has to do with you want to minimize it kicking in, but you also don't want to die :P

That's great!
For more info on setups (been researching the last few days), there's this also: http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/assetto-corsa-car-setup-guides.99049/#post-1907640

@TRB: I use ABS since you avoid locking wheels (so, I'm "faster" if you want), and for TC, I use 4/7 with the GTR. I like it a bit slippery on corner exits

Do you guys use TC and/or ABS with GT3 cars?

Since it's allowed in the real world, I was wondering if it's faster to race with these on.

Here's the central folder we'll be using: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxNyJM0w_2HWeEVlVGxiTDhjQjA&usp=sharing

It has a folder for general advice, setups and replays. (Please if you do upload a replay, add your setup to the setup folder (and specify your car)).